Day 3 : Bijapur

11/10/2006 : 9:30pm : KudalaSangama

120Kms, a good 3 hr drive (although didn't drive at 40 on NH ;-)) and a right deviation from NH13, and 5Kms IN, we were at KudalaSangama. The confluence of Rivers Krishna and Malaprabha.

KUDALA SANGAMA most historic place since around 800 years. The famous rivers Krishna and Ghataprabha merge here and flows towards Srishaila of Andra Pradesh. To improve this historic place, Government has established a Kudala Sangama Development Board and provided nearly Rs. 45.00 cr to develop this places. This place is one of the most sought pilgrimage center.

The Kamat group is omnipresent. So, food isn't a concern, plus, you can try out some finger licking delicacies, local to the place. The accommodation here is real cheap. A sound sleep....

Next morning, a dip in the river and a visit to the temple. The temples here are recently renovated. The Aikya Mantapa of 12th century poet and social reformer Lord Basavanna. The Mantapa is under water, but is well protected. There is a temple dedicated to Lord Sangameswara, built in the Chalukyan style architecture. A semi-circular draw bridge over the river, would lead us to the location of confluence/the aikya mantapa. A huge 4 floor complex. FOUR floors below the ground level; ground level being 'water level'. A bubble source of water - Its admirable! Though there are leaks in the walls....

The much unknown was the preparation of Vibhuthi. We saw it live!

PERFECTLY sign-posted, along the entire route. But, if you need some entertainment you can ask the pedestrian, the route and about other places of interest around, in Kannada. Most of the time they'll be more than eager to help, and you are sure to enjoy their language, and accent. On NH216 the visibility was up to infinity. But, the next set of wheels which you could bump was barely a few meters away. All my experience and skills of maneuvering was tested.

11/10/2006 : 11 AM : Bijapur

Keep following the sign-posts, which keep showing the way like a beacon.....

Alamatti Dam : 'WOW'! one's surely bound to exclamate. The dam across river Krishna, would make one watch in agape. The fantastic view of the 3 bridges. The main dam, the Railway bridge and the Roadway briged. I could imagine the rail experience over this bridge! A bussiest bridge, one's not allowed to stop and click, just allowed to fill your eyes and memory with the enchanting view and keeping in pace with the traffic. Tight security here, due to 'R.Krishna -> Alamatti; AndraPradesh' issue similar to, our 'R.Kaveri -> KRS; TamilNadu', issue.

Think of Bijapur and the first thing that comes to mind is the Gol Gumbaz. We just had plans to visit Gol Gumbaz, Barah Kamaan and Ibrahim Roza, as our text books at school just boasted of those structures.

First pit stop after entering Bijapur was to taste the water of R.Krishna. And straight we drove to Gol Gumbaz, with the assistance of the some bystanders who helped us meander the narrow, flocked streets and reach our destination. The most appreciating part of all the places visited is, that they don't charge you for holding a camera and clicking snaps or video. Only a tripod and an handy-cam is a strict no-no. Anyway my 'biscuit sized Nikon' wouldn't fall into the category, anyhow...

1] Gol Gumbaz boasts of the Third largest dome in the world, after Pantheion of Rome and St.Paul's of Britain.The tomb of Mohammed Adil Shah(AD1626-1656). He has his wives and daughters burried here. Soon we met our talkative, overtly friendly guide. Who explained us every aspect/feature of Gol Gumbaz and accompanied us till the end of the day. The central hall is supported by four lofty octagonal, seven storeyed towers in the four corners. Above which is the 44 meters diametered dome. This dome forms a highly sensitive echo-chamber. The remarkable feature of this monument is the whispering gallery that runs around the interior of the dome. The slightest whisper echoes seven times over and the tick of a clock held at one end can be distinctly heard at the opposite end - 125 feet away ! This was demostrated too. The 7 floored structure, The 7 tired toweres are octagonal in shape. You get to see the entire city as you go up. The flight of steps are in a narrow dark passage and pretty high. The entire city of Bijapur, is said to have a count of 1365 domes.


Our guide here was full of wit and humour, adding to that was his accent. I consider myself lucky to have caught his humour though! The JamaMasjid and Gol Gumbaz was built from the from the wealth looted from VijayaNagar. Post to Battle of Talikote and the battle of Rakkasathangadi. How unfortunate things are!



The entrance porch is warm and welcoming. For a moment you go blank. The wooden plank on the platform is many inches thick and the columns are solid wood sculpted in geometrical forms. The ceilings are ornate with floral motifs. Above the ornate relief the verses of Koran etched.It is the rich details of the stone carving that are revealed as ornament!



The city was hot and dusty; people in Whites - were filthy. Probablly the Rin and Surf adds weren't aired in this city. The entire day neither did the sun change nor did our plans. I think there is a BIG hole in the ozone layer, right above this city.

We were loaded with info and was time for lunch. The food which almost made us feel at home all this while, suddenly turns Mughalai or Hyderabadi, as soon as you reach this region. Scrouching sun, the sun was indeed merciless; ; The first thought that hit me was that, 'the equator is passing through this region'. The second thought, 'We kept wondering whether we have landed in Pakistan'!

2] Shiva Temple : There is one in Bijapur, similar to the one in Airport Road, Bangalore.

http://gud-overhaul.blogspot.com/Shiva Temple : Bangalore v/s Bijapur.html

3] Bara Kaman :

The incomplete structure stands to this day.



4] Jodi Gumbaz : Mosque again.

5] Jumma Masjid :
Embracing 1,16,300 square feet is the Jumma Masjid - "one of the finest mosques in India". Here, in a beautiful mihrab - covered by a heavy curtain - and verses of the Quran, beautifully inscribed in letters of gold. A large fountain and a reservoir at the centre of the courtyard.

6] Hyder Burz : A tall watch tower

7] Ibrahim Roza(1626AD) :
On the western outskirts of the city lies the mausoleum of Ibrahim Adil Shah II(AD1508 - 1626), constructed for his queen Taj Sultana - Ibrahim Roza, said to have inspired the Taj Mahal in Agra. But, Adil ShahII ultimately died before the queen, and lay burried here. You'll be overawed by the decor and the staggering expanse of the mosque. Minarets, domes, prayer hall, striking symmetry of proportions, praphets, writings of quoran on the walls, it is known for. Its esplanades alone can accomodate 80,000 worshippers.


8] Malik-e-Maidan : the largest medieval cannon in the world - is fourteen feet long, weighing about 55 tons. 14 feet 11 inches, wifh a diameter of 4 feet 11 inch. The inscription on it says, it was cast by Mohammed Hasan, a Turkish officer, in service of the king of Anmednagar. This was supposed to be bought home as a trophy of war, with the help of 10s of elephants, numerous oxens and men. The muzzel of the cannon has been designed to depeict Lion, Elephant, Horse and ox. Small ears have been drilled into holes to attach the shakles. Its said to be made, from an alloy of Copper, iron, tin and some precious metal. It sounds like a Bell, when striked.


All this structures have been integrated with the city. Some have shared walls too. The Archeological survey is successful to some extent in its attempt of evacating the houses and clearing the surrounding area, and maintaing green patches around. You can hear muezzin calling muslims to prayers, and get to see people with skull-cap all around the city.

It was time to depart from city of Bijapur....

Basavana Baghewadi : 'Eight hundred years ago, there lived a couple by name' Madarasa and Madalambike in a village called Bagewadi of Bijapur District, in Karnataka', remember learning thisbyheart for my 4th standard exam. Now got to see it live...

Alamatti :